Cosmetics Ingredients A-Z

Recently I’ve posted a series that lists and defines a lot of the ingredients in cosmetics, both large commercial formulas and those ingredients which are becoming available for the more boutique manufacturers.  It is a long, long, LONG series of posts, and rather than  recreate them here, I’ll point you toward a consolidated list at Soapy Hollow.com.

Natural Preservatives

A preservative is essentially a chemical agent that will destroy or inhibit micro-organisms in finished formulations. There is ample scope for microbial contamination at the end user level. It is therefore important that the product be protected by a suitable preservative to ensure safety in use and adequate shelf life.

Water activity and pH of the formulation, and the solubility and stability of the preservative in the base composition are the factors that determine preservative efficacy. Additives such as glycerol, butylene glycol, salt (sodium chloride), sugars, soluble starches, dextrin, xanthan gum and others absorb water, thereby lowering the water activity of the formula.

Analogs in the lists of natural actives include glucans, mannans and other polysaccharides extracted from commonly used culinary materials such as tamarind seed and fenugreek.

In the area of chemical preservatives that stop or inhibit microbial growth, common classes of chemicals used include acids, aromatic alcohols, N-methylol containing compounds, halogenated compounds, isothiazolinones, quaternary nitrogen compounds, and 1,2 diols.

A number of phytochemicals found in natural sources resemble these compounds in chemical structure and are natural preservatives. These classes of phytochemicals include essential oil constituents (such as eugenol, thymol, carvacrol, terpenoid compounds), flavonoids, phenolic compounds, tannins and alkaloids.

Some of these extracts when combined with ineffective antibiotics were found to be effective against antibiotic resistant strains.

Although no single natural extract has been found to be as effective as conventionally used preservatives such as parabens, combinations of naturals with synergistic activity have been identified.

Such extracts could offer protection against the invasive growth of bacteria and fungi. Parabens, for example, are poorly soluble in water and their action is strongest against gram positive bacteria and fungi and weakest against gram negative bacteria.

A combination of synthetic preservatives are often used in formulations, which can lead to safety and regulation issues, depending on where the product is marketed. (For example, the E.U. has considerably more strict regulations than does the U.S.)

It is here that blends of natural extracts may be useful. Natural blends also offer antioxidant action, with beneficial effects on product shelf life. One example is a proprietary natural extract of yellow curcuminoids from Curcuma longa (turmeric) roots and a colorless derivative Tetra-hydrocurcuminoids [INCI: tetrahydrodiferuloyl-methane, tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetra-hydrobisdemeth-oxydiferuloylmethane][1], that were found to offer more effective anti-oxidant protection than the conventionally used synthetic antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).

The skilled formulator has a plethora of natural options available for use as preservatives. Care should however be taken to ensure that these naturals are selected with physicochemical characteristics, global regulatory considerations and safety aspects in mind.

Reference

1. US Patent # 6,607,712, Sabinsa Corporation

Make your own hand sanitizer

With flu season coming, and H1N1 on the horizon, now is the time for hand washing and sanitizing. But sanitizers often leave your hands chapped and dry. Plus, they smell icky. But you can make your own, and modify the scent to please your own personal scent palate.

This is an easy, non-emulsified sanitizer:

Blend together:

• 2 cups aloe vera gel (100% pure, none of that weird blue stuff, or stuff with lidocaine in, or any other chemicals…just pure aloe.)

• 2 tablespoons 90% SD40 alcohol. Ask the pharmacist if she has perfumer’s alcohol. You can use isopropyl, but it has a distinctive smell, and is not as effective.

• 1 tsp peppermint or eucalyptus oil

• 1-2 tsp tea tree oil (more is better, but some people have issues with the mediciney smell.)

(I also add a little basil or rosemary oil because I think it makes the other oils blend better from a “nose” standpoint. It gives the fragrance a top, middle and bottom note. Rose, lavender, lemon, or Geranium oils also work well with this blend.)

If you’re not sure where to get any of those things, let me know. I can recommend some suppliers.

Part IV Natural antibioticals

Neem Tree

Neem oil and Neem leaf extract

[INCI: Melia azadirachta]

The neem tree is traditionally labelled The Village Pharmacy because of its multifaceted healing properties. These range from immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects to antimicrobial and pesticidal attributes. The leaves and seeds of neem yield limonoids with wide biological applications. These have antibacterial, antiviral, insect repellant, anti-protozoal and anti-helmenthic properties.

The seed oil at a concentration of 0.3% on agar plates was active against Stahylococcus aureus and at 0.4% was active against Salmonella typhosa. The seed oil at a concentration of 3% on agar plates was active against E. coli and Proteus species. A concentration of 6.0% was active against Klebsiella pneumoniae. Methanol and butyl-methyl-ether extracts showed antifungal activity against the strains of fungi including Epidermaphyton floccosum, Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum, Trichophyton concentricum, Trichophyton entagrophytes, Trichophyton rubrum and Trichophyton violaceum.

A recent study determined the efficacy of a muco-adhesive dental gel containing Azadirachta indica leaf extract (25mg/g) using commercially available chlorhexidine gluconate (0.2% w/w) mouthwash as a positive control. The results of the study suggested that the dental gel containing neem extract significantly reduced plaque index and bacterial count as compared to the control group.

Green tea fields

Green tea extract

[INCI: Camellia sinensis leaf extract]

The catechins in green tea were found to inhibit Staphylococci and Yersinia entero-colitica. Green tea extracts may make strains of drug resistant bacteria more sensitive to penicillin. In vitro studies on Staphylococcus aureus revealed that the addition of green tea extract induced a reversal of penicillin resistance. It was found that epicatechin gallate markedly lowered the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of oxacillin and other beta-lactams. Extracts of green tea were found strongly to inhibit Escherichia coli, Streptococcus salivarius and Streptococcus mutans, micro-organisms found in the saliva and teeth of people suffering from dental caries. Green tea in combination with the synthetic anti-oxidant butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) reduced the hydrophobicity of S. mutans and greatly inhibited (p<0.001) the formation of hyphae in Candida albicans. The increased antimicrobial activity of green tea is related to an impairment of the barrier function in micro-organisms and a depletion of thiol groups.

Part III Natural antimicrobials – Turmeric Oil

Turmeric oil [INCI: Curcuma longa]

Turmeric root and plant

Turmeric oil is obtained by steam distillation or solvent extraction of the powdered rhizome of species of the genus Curcuma (family: Zingiberaceae). Of these species, Curcuma longa is the most well known. Curcuma longa yields 0.3-7.2% (usually 4-5%) of turmeric oil following steam distillation. The chief constituents of the essential oil are turmerone (60%) and related compounds, and zingiberene (25%).

In India and other ayurvedic healing modality cultures,  turmeric has long been known for its cosmetic and wound healing properties. The essential oil has been used as a perfume component and studies have shown that it has antibacterial/antifungal, anti-inflammatory and insect-repellant properties, and is effective in the treatment of scabies.

References:

• P. S. Negi, G. K. Jayaprakasha, L. Jagan Mohan Rao, and K. K. Sakariah Central Food Technological Research Institute, Mysore 570 013, India
• J. Agric. Food Chem., 1999, 47 (10), pp 4297–4300 DOI: 10.1021/jf990308dPublication Date (Web): September 24, 1999 Copyright © 1999 American Chemical Society
• Antimicrobial activity of Curcuma zedoaria and Curcuma malabarica tubers doi:10.1016/j.jep.2005.02.004
• Antimicrobial properties of some herb essential oils EV Packiyasothy, S Kyle – Food Australia, 2002 – cat.inist.fr

Part II: A focus on natural antimicrobials

Kaempferia Galanga in bloom

Kaempferia galanga [INCI: Kaempferia galanga root extract]

Kaempferia is a genus in the Zingiberaceae family found in southern & southeastern Asia. These gingers grow from small globular rhizomes which grow fleshy roots. Most are low growing with colorfully marked foliage. Flowers either emerge in the spring just prior to the foliage or with the foliage continuing flowering through the summer. Most species naturally go dormant for a portion of the year.

Kaempferia galanga (lesser galangal, kencur), and Alpinia galanga (greater galangal) from the Zingiberaceae family are commonly used as spice ingredients and medicinal herbs in South East Asia and are valued for their protective topical effects when applied as pastes.

Kaempferia galanga rhizome contains 1.5 – 2% essential oil, the main components being ethyl cinnamate (25%), ethyl-p-methoxycinnamate (30%) and p-methoxycinnamic acid. Kaempferia galanga is a good natural source of the biologically active ester ethyl p-methoxycinnamate.

In laboratory studies, the fraction of the extract rich in ethyl p-methoxycinnamate was found to effectively inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acnes, producing significant zones of inhibition at concentrations even as low as 0.5%.

Toxicity testing in laboratories has been performed, suggesting little to no topical toxicity issues.

References:

• Woerdenbag, Herman J. et al. (2004). “Composition of the essential oils of Kaempferia rotunda L. and Kaempferia angustifolia Roscoe rhizomes from Indonesia”. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 19 (2): 145 – 148. doi:10.1002/ffj.1284
• Kanjanapothi, D., et al. (2004), “Toxicity of crude rhizome extract of Kaempferia galanga L. (Proh Hom)“, Journal of Ethnopharmacology 90 (2-3): 359-365, doi:10.1016/j.jep.2003.10.020
• Wong, K. C. et al. (2006). “Compositon of the essential oil of rhizomes of kaempferia galanga L.”. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 7 (5): 263 – 266. doi:10.1002/ffj.2730070506
• GRIN Taxonomy for Plants

A focus on natural antimicrobials

The need to control microbial activity is inherent in two major facets of personal care. The first area is that of antimicrobial care where the product helps to retard the growth of topical pathogens or eliminates them. The second is in the area of preservatives that retard the growth of microbes in product formulations.

Recently there has been increased dialogue related to natural antimicrobials as topical actives and preservatives in the personal care industry. Synthetic compounds long accepted as effective in controlling microbial growth have come under scientific and regulatory scrutiny. These efforts are mainly driven by safety and environmental concerns, and the increased incidence of antibiotic resistant microbial strains. Natural alternatives derived from botanicals are therefore being explored by researchers around the world.

In a series of posts, I’m going to focus on some of the natural antimicrobials that are currently being investigated or have been put into use in major market cosmetics.

Coleus oil [INCI: Coleus forskohlii root oil]

Coleus Root (illustration)

Coleus oil is an essential oil extracted from the roots of Coleus forskohlii, a plant from the Natural Order Labiatae (Lamiaceae), a family of mints and lavenders. This species is a perennial herb with fleshy, fibrous roots. This grows wild in the warm sub-tropical temperate areas in South Asia. The roots are eaten as a condiment or pickle in India. In recent years Coleus forskohlii has gained pharmacological importance as the only known plant source of the biologically active compound, forskolin, a coleus oil which is a useful by-product of forskolin extraction. The newly discovered antimicrobial properties of the oil (of specific composition obtained using a proprietary extraction process)[1] render it useful in topical preparations.

Compounds such as 3-decanone (about 7%), bornyl acetate (about 15%), sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and sesquiterpene alcohols in major concentrations impart pleasing spicy notes to the essential oil. ß-sesquiphellandrene (about 13%) and g-eudesmol (12.5%) were identified in experimental studies on the oil.

In laboratory studies, coleus oil was found to inhibit the growth of skin pathogens more effectively than the better known tea tree oil; the pathogens included Propionbacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Additionally, coleus oil was found to inhibit the yeast culture Candida albicans more effectively than tea tree oil. The extract is safe to use in cosmetic formulations, it does not irritate the skin and its pleasant woody aroma blends with cosmetics.

References:

1. Bruneton, Jean. (1995) Coleus forskohlii. in Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants, Lavoisier publishing Company, 521.

2. de Souza, N.J. (1991) Coleus forskohlii Briq.- The Indian plant source for forskolin. Recent Advances in Medicinal, Aromatic & Spice crops, (ed: S..P. Raychaudhuri.) Today and

3. Tomorrow’s printers and Publishers, New Delhi, India, Vol I: 83-91. Misra, L.N. et al. (1994) Variability of the chemical composition of the essential oil of Coleus forskohlii genotypes. J. Essential Oil Res. 6:243-247.

4. Research Report, Sabinsa Corporation, 2001

5. Denver, C.V. et al. (1994) Isolation of antirhinoviral sesquiterpenes from ginger (Zingiber officinale). J Nat Prod. 57(5):658-62 .

6. Buchbauer G et al. (1992) Effects of valerian root oil, borneol, isoborneol, bornyl acetate and isobornyl acetate on the motility of laboratory animals (mice) after inhalation. Pharmazie. 47(8):620-2

7. Nishijima, S., et al. (2000) The bacteriology of acne vulgaris and antimicrobial susceptibility of Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. J. Dermatol.. 27:318-323

8. Nishijima, S et al.(1994) Sensitivity of Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes isolated from skin infections in 1992 to antimicrobial agents, J. Dermatol 21: 233-238.

9. Sanchez-Perez, L. and Enrique Acosta-Gio (2001) A. Caries risk assessment from dental plaque and salivary Streptococcus mutans counts on two culture media. Arch. Oral Biol., 46: 49-55.

Call for Papers: Edited Volume on Neuroscience and Feminism

Call for Papers:

With the recent advances in imaging and genetic technologies, the last decade has witnessed an explosion of work on human cognitive and affective functioning. Among some of the more publicized work is that on sex differences. Basing research on neuroscience lends studies particular credibility in the public mind, with the result that traditional gender characteristics and roles seem to take on a new credibility. There are, however, serious questions about how to interpret the evidence from neuroscience, an area that, in some respects, appears to be just as sensitive to preconceived notions of sex-differences as other fields. It is, therefore, time to apply a feminist perspective to this burgeoning field of study.

We call for papers for an edited volume on neuroscience and feminism in areas including, but not limited to the following topics: (1) exploration of past stereotypes, (2) scientifically informed understanding of sex differences/similarities, (3) the exposure of androcentric biases that inform scientific research, (4) new scientifically informed perspectives on old feminist issues, (5) neuroscientific understanding of embodied experience, (6) understanding sex differences using animal models, (7) the neuroscience of ethical thinking, (8) pathologies, mental disorder, and sex differences. We encourage researchers from philosophy, psychology, neuroscience, and cognitive science generally to submit.

The deadline for submission of manuscripts (maximum length 12,000 words) is January 1, 2010. We also encourage those interested in submitting a paper to contact us in advance of this deadline. Please also feel welcome to circulate this call for papers to colleagues who may be interested in contributing a paper.

Robyn Bluhm, Old Dominion University rbluhm @ odu.edu
Anne Jacobson, University of Houston anne.jacobson @ mail.uh.edu
Heidi Maibom, Carleton University heidi_maibom @ carleton.ca

Essential Oils for Summer Hair Repair

When one keeps an Igor, one will find that one spends an inordinate amount of time outside under the burning rays of the DayStar, and often submerged in water saturated with either salt or chlorine.  None of these are terribly good for one’s hair.

However, repairing the damage is pretty simple.  Here’s the formula for the goo I’ve got sitting on my hair currently. Note that this formula will make a lot more than one application.  I store my extra in a brown glass apothecary bottle with a dropper top, to keep it from degrading from light or environmental conditions.

For just under 2 ounces of hair oil:

• .75 ounce Hemp oil
• .75 ounce Evening Primrose oil
• .25 ounce lavender oil
• .15 ounce geranium oil
• .10 ounce bois de rose oil (rosewood)

Mix, stir gently, and put in your storage container.

To use: You don’t need to use very much.  Start with about 1/2 a teaspoon in your cupped palm.  Warm by rubbing between your hands, then apply by starting at the ends of your hair.  Add more oil as needed.  I have very thick, waist length, Mediterranean hair, and I usually end up using no more that a tablespoon or so. Your mileage may vary.

Wrap your hair in a plastic shower cap, or cling film if you don’t have a cap handy.  Let it sit on your hair for at least 30 minutes, but I find that leaving it on for a couple of hours makes it even better.  I’ve even left it on overnight with no problems.

When you’re tired of having plastic on your head, hop in the shower, and shampoo out with cool water.  Follow your usual hair routine (conditioner, vinegar rinse, detangler…whatever you normally do).

When your hair is dry, it should be incredibly soft and shiny.  Yay!

Cherry Cheesecake

Cheesecake with Bing Cherry Sauce

The store had bing cherries on sale, and we brought a couple pounds home, only to find that they needed to be used asap.

So…what better use for cherries than cheesecake! Everyone loves a good cheesecake. Heck, folks love a bad cheesecake, but a good one is even better.

When making cheesecake, I use a 7″ x 4″ inch spring-form pan, because I prefer fluffy tall cheesecake, rather than dense, short cheesecake. But this recipe can be used in a 9″ x 2″ pie pan just as easily.

Preheat oven to 350

Crust:

• 1 1/2 cups graham crackers
• 6 tablespoons melted butter
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon almond extract (optional)

Melt butter, stir together with dry ingredients and extract, press into bottom of spring form, or over entire pie shell or cake form if you prefer lots of crust. (I use about half this amount, because I don’t like a lot of crust, just enough to keep the filling from leaking out of the spring-form pan.)

Filling:

• 2 eggs
• 1 lb cream cheese (not the whipped kind), softened
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
• lemon zest to taste

Cream eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla together. Add cream cheese and beat until smooth. Set your mixer to medium, and whip the ingredients for 3 minutes.

Baking:

• For the tall spring-form pan, bake for about 40 minutes or until filling is set and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. For a 9″ pie pan, check at 20 minutes, and then every 5 minutes until set.

• In a springform pan, while the cake is still warm, run a cool, clean knife around the inside perimeter of the pan, so that when the cake cools and contracts, it doesn’t crack.

• Cool to room temp, then refrigerate.

At serving, top with cherry sauce – recipe below: (This is the same method you use to make pie filling, although you need to double or triple the recipe to fill a whole pie shell.)

Cherry Sauce:

• Pit and stem 4 cups of cherries.

In a deep saucepan, combine

• 3/4 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch or arrowroot
• dash of salt
• 1/3 cup water

Stir in cherries. Cook and stir until thick and bubbly.

Cook and stir for 1-2 minutes more, then remove from heat, cover and let cool without stirring.