Part III Natural antimicrobials – Turmeric Oil

Turmeric oil [INCI: Curcuma longa]

Turmeric root and plant

Turmeric oil is obtained by steam distillation or solvent extraction of the powdered rhizome of species of the genus Curcuma (family: Zingiberaceae). Of these species, Curcuma longa is the most well known. Curcuma longa yields 0.3-7.2% (usually 4-5%) of turmeric oil following steam distillation. The chief constituents of the essential oil are turmerone (60%) and related compounds, and zingiberene (25%).

In India and other ayurvedic healing modality cultures,  turmeric has long been known for its cosmetic and wound healing properties. The essential oil has been used as a perfume component and studies have shown that it has antibacterial/antifungal, anti-inflammatory and insect-repellant properties, and is effective in the treatment of scabies.

References:

• P. S. Negi, G. K. Jayaprakasha, L. Jagan Mohan Rao, and K. K. Sakariah Central Food Technological Research Institute, Mysore 570 013, India
• J. Agric. Food Chem., 1999, 47 (10), pp 4297–4300 DOI: 10.1021/jf990308dPublication Date (Web): September 24, 1999 Copyright © 1999 American Chemical Society
• Antimicrobial activity of Curcuma zedoaria and Curcuma malabarica tubers doi:10.1016/j.jep.2005.02.004
• Antimicrobial properties of some herb essential oils EV Packiyasothy, S Kyle – Food Australia, 2002 – cat.inist.fr

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Part II: A focus on natural antimicrobials

Kaempferia Galanga in bloom

Kaempferia galanga [INCI: Kaempferia galanga root extract]

Kaempferia is a genus in the Zingiberaceae family found in southern & southeastern Asia. These gingers grow from small globular rhizomes which grow fleshy roots. Most are low growing with colorfully marked foliage. Flowers either emerge in the spring just prior to the foliage or with the foliage continuing flowering through the summer. Most species naturally go dormant for a portion of the year.

Kaempferia galanga (lesser galangal, kencur), and Alpinia galanga (greater galangal) from the Zingiberaceae family are commonly used as spice ingredients and medicinal herbs in South East Asia and are valued for their protective topical effects when applied as pastes.

Kaempferia galanga rhizome contains 1.5 – 2% essential oil, the main components being ethyl cinnamate (25%), ethyl-p-methoxycinnamate (30%) and p-methoxycinnamic acid. Kaempferia galanga is a good natural source of the biologically active ester ethyl p-methoxycinnamate.

In laboratory studies, the fraction of the extract rich in ethyl p-methoxycinnamate was found to effectively inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acnes, producing significant zones of inhibition at concentrations even as low as 0.5%.

Toxicity testing in laboratories has been performed, suggesting little to no topical toxicity issues.

References:

• Woerdenbag, Herman J. et al. (2004). “Composition of the essential oils of Kaempferia rotunda L. and Kaempferia angustifolia Roscoe rhizomes from Indonesia”. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 19 (2): 145 – 148. doi:10.1002/ffj.1284
• Kanjanapothi, D., et al. (2004), “Toxicity of crude rhizome extract of Kaempferia galanga L. (Proh Hom)“, Journal of Ethnopharmacology 90 (2-3): 359-365, doi:10.1016/j.jep.2003.10.020
• Wong, K. C. et al. (2006). “Compositon of the essential oil of rhizomes of kaempferia galanga L.”. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 7 (5): 263 – 266. doi:10.1002/ffj.2730070506
• GRIN Taxonomy for Plants

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A focus on natural antimicrobials

The need to control microbial activity is inherent in two major facets of personal care. The first area is that of antimicrobial care where the product helps to retard the growth of topical pathogens or eliminates them. The second is in the area of preservatives that retard the growth of microbes in product formulations.

Recently there has been increased dialogue related to natural antimicrobials as topical actives and preservatives in the personal care industry. Synthetic compounds long accepted as effective in controlling microbial growth have come under scientific and regulatory scrutiny. These efforts are mainly driven by safety and environmental concerns, and the increased incidence of antibiotic resistant microbial strains. Natural alternatives derived from botanicals are therefore being explored by researchers around the world.

In a series of posts, I’m going to focus on some of the natural antimicrobials that are currently being investigated or have been put into use in major market cosmetics.

Coleus oil [INCI: Coleus forskohlii root oil]

Coleus Root (illustration)

Coleus oil is an essential oil extracted from the roots of Coleus forskohlii, a plant from the Natural Order Labiatae (Lamiaceae), a family of mints and lavenders. This species is a perennial herb with fleshy, fibrous roots. This grows wild in the warm sub-tropical temperate areas in South Asia. The roots are eaten as a condiment or pickle in India. In recent years Coleus forskohlii has gained pharmacological importance as the only known plant source of the biologically active compound, forskolin, a coleus oil which is a useful by-product of forskolin extraction. The newly discovered antimicrobial properties of the oil (of specific composition obtained using a proprietary extraction process)[1] render it useful in topical preparations.

Compounds such as 3-decanone (about 7%), bornyl acetate (about 15%), sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and sesquiterpene alcohols in major concentrations impart pleasing spicy notes to the essential oil. ß-sesquiphellandrene (about 13%) and g-eudesmol (12.5%) were identified in experimental studies on the oil.

In laboratory studies, coleus oil was found to inhibit the growth of skin pathogens more effectively than the better known tea tree oil; the pathogens included Propionbacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Additionally, coleus oil was found to inhibit the yeast culture Candida albicans more effectively than tea tree oil. The extract is safe to use in cosmetic formulations, it does not irritate the skin and its pleasant woody aroma blends with cosmetics.

References:

1. Bruneton, Jean. (1995) Coleus forskohlii. in Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants, Lavoisier publishing Company, 521.

2. de Souza, N.J. (1991) Coleus forskohlii Briq.- The Indian plant source for forskolin. Recent Advances in Medicinal, Aromatic & Spice crops, (ed: S..P. Raychaudhuri.) Today and

3. Tomorrow’s printers and Publishers, New Delhi, India, Vol I: 83-91. Misra, L.N. et al. (1994) Variability of the chemical composition of the essential oil of Coleus forskohlii genotypes. J. Essential Oil Res. 6:243-247.

4. Research Report, Sabinsa Corporation, 2001

5. Denver, C.V. et al. (1994) Isolation of antirhinoviral sesquiterpenes from ginger (Zingiber officinale). J Nat Prod. 57(5):658-62 .

6. Buchbauer G et al. (1992) Effects of valerian root oil, borneol, isoborneol, bornyl acetate and isobornyl acetate on the motility of laboratory animals (mice) after inhalation. Pharmazie. 47(8):620-2

7. Nishijima, S., et al. (2000) The bacteriology of acne vulgaris and antimicrobial susceptibility of Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. J. Dermatol.. 27:318-323

8. Nishijima, S et al.(1994) Sensitivity of Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes isolated from skin infections in 1992 to antimicrobial agents, J. Dermatol 21: 233-238.

9. Sanchez-Perez, L. and Enrique Acosta-Gio (2001) A. Caries risk assessment from dental plaque and salivary Streptococcus mutans counts on two culture media. Arch. Oral Biol., 46: 49-55.

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Bacteria Manage Perfume Oil Production From Grass

ScienceDaily (Nov. 7, 2008) — Scientists in Italy have found bacteria in the root of a tropical grass whose oils have been used in the cosmetic and perfumery industries. These bacteria seem to promote the production of essential oils, but also they change the molecular structure of the oil, giving it different flavours and properties: termicidal, insecticidal, antimicrobial and antioxidant.

Studying the root of the tropical Vetiver grass through interdisciplinary research, the microbiologists Pietro Alifano and Luigi Del Giudice, the plant biologist Massimo Maffei and their colleagues found that Vetiver root cells produce a few oil precursors, which are then metabolised by the root bacteria to build up the complexity of the Vetiver oil. The bacteria were found in the oil-producing cells as well as in root locations that are closely associated with the essential oil.

The Vetiver grass is the only grass cultivated specifically for its root essential oil, which is made up of chemicals called sesquiterpenes. These are used in plants as pheromones and juvenile hormones. The essential oils also contain alcohols and hydrocarbons, which, together with the sesquiterpenes are primarily used in perfumery and cosmetics. The perfumery and flavouring industry could benefit from the increased variety that these bacteria provide to the smells and tastes of these oils.

The bacteria responsible for this transformation include alpha-, beta- and gamma-proteobacteria, high-G+C Gram-positive bacteria as well as microbes which belong to the Fibrobacteres / Acidobacteria group.

“This research opens new frontiers in the biotech arena of natural bioactive compounds” said Professor Alifano “Pharmaceutical, perfumery and flavouring industries may now exploit the selected microbial strains and widen their metabolic libraries”.

“The ecological role of plant-microbial associations shows another fascinating aspect” said Professor Maffei “The metabolic interplay between a plant, which offers a few simple molecules, with root bacteria, that biotransform them into an array of bioactive compounds, increases fitness and reveals new cost-efficient survival strategies”

Citations:  Wiley-Blackwell (2008, November 7). Bacteria Manage Perfume Oil Production From Grass. ScienceDaily. Retrieved November 10, 2008, from http://www.sciencedaily.com­ /releases/2008/10/081031102053.htm

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Study Confirms psychoactive effect of Frankincense

A study published in the The FASEB Journal, a journal of experimental biology

“found that incensole acetate, a Boswellia resin constituent, when tested in mice lowers anxiety and causes antidepressive-like behavior.”

The press release goes on to cite this study as an explanation of how burning incense may have had a spiritual effect–a fact that is obvious to holistic aromatherapists. The significance of this study is that the study the mechanism that causes the effect was discovered.

There is an earlier study (2) on the anti-inflammatory effects of  Boswellia by the same authors that isolated the compound from Boswellia carterii, the common frankincense. The study authors suggest that the exact mechanism of the effect may be by activating TRPV3 that is found in neurons throughout the brain. TRPV3 is an ion channel implicated in the perception of warmth in the skin, as well as in the brain.

For this study, the incensole acetate was injected intraperitoneally into the mice, and then the mice were subjected to behavioral tests. A control group of mice that were known to be insensitive to TRPV3 stimulation was also used.

The psychoactive effects of frankincense are well known to aromatherapists, who are also aware that the the burnt resin has entirely different chemical composition than the essential oil components(3). Since the administration in this case was by injection and because incensole acetate is a (relatively minor – 2.3%) constituent of the essential oil there may be a different effect through inhalation of the essential oil; in any case this study did not address that. Reference (4) studied the Pyrolysates (burnt products) and found that insensole rises to 22% and incensyl acetate to 15.5%, so the effect may be greater when incense is used.

The study has been widely reported on in the scientific media, but as usual the press release was used as the major source and no one appears to have asked any interesting questions, which are answered in the full paper.

It would be interesting to see this study repeated using the essential oil.

References:

(1) Arieh Moussaieff et al. Incensole acetate, an incense component, elicits psychoactivity by activating TRPV3 channels in the brain, Published online before print May 20, 2008 as doi: 10.1096/fj.07-101865. Abstract at http://www.fasebj.org/cgi/content/abstract/fj.07-101865v1

(2) Arieh Moussaieff et al. Incensole acetate: a novel neuroprotective agent isolated from Boswellia carterii, Journal of Cerebral Blood Flow & Metabolism advance online publication 16 April 2008; doi: 10.1038/jcbfm.2008.28. Abstract at http://www.nature.com/jcbfm/journal/vaop/ncurrent/abs/jcbfm200828a.html

(3) Lis-Balchin, Maria.  Aromatherapy Science: A guide for healthcare professionals. Pharmaceutical Press: 2006. p. 193.

(4)  Basar, Simla. Phytochemical Investigations on Boswellia Species. Dr. dissertation. University of Hamberg 2005. Online at http://deposit.ddb.de/cgi-bin/dokserv?idn=975255932&dok_var=d1&dok_ext=pdf&filename=975255932.pdf

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Quick Gentle Body Scrub

This extra gentle cleansing scrub will leave your skin feeling silky and smooth.

* 1 tablespoon wheat germ
* 1 tablespoon oatbran
* 2 tablespoons almond oil
* 3 drops Sweet Orange essential oil

In a mortar and pestle, mix the wheat germ and oatbran together. Add almond oil and essential oil to form a paste.

While standing in a tub or shower, (trust me on this one), massage the paste all over your body. (I wouldn’t use this on your face though.) Then rinse off with warm water. Voila! Exfoliated, smooth skin!

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PMS Essential Remedies

Don’t you hate those mornings when none of your clothes fit, everyone is driving you up a wall and you could crochet chain mail from the Dove wrappers scattered around your comfy chair? Yeah….PMS sucks. This morning, after threatening to sell my small child to the gypsies…and his little dog too…I realized that perhaps I was a tad cranky. And by tad, I mean that I was meaner than Joan Rivers when she sees a red carpet. But today is a busy one, so I didn’t have time to feel sorry for myself and hide on the couch with a heating pad and a bag of chocolate.

Fortunately, PMS is not a stranger ’round these parts, so I’m prepared. I’ve got four PMS blends that I keep in the studio for just such an occasion. (I have four because I tend to pick the one that smells best to me on a given day.) These blends work well as massage oils, they can be made into spritzers by switching the carrier oil with witch hazel, they can be put in a room diffuser or worn as perfumes.

PMS Blend One: (This is my fave, and the blend I use in Lunar Garden soap)

• Grapefruit – 4 drops
• Clary Sage – 4 drops
• Ylang Ylang – 4 drops
• Geranium – 5 drops
• Carrier oil – 5 ml (1 tsp)

PMS Blend Two: (Note that bois de rose should only be sourced from sustainable growers, and Lemon can be substituted for Melissa.)

• Bergamot – 4 drops
• Fennel – 3 drops
• Bois de Rose – 4 drops
• Melissa – 3 drops
• Carrier Oil – 5 ml (1 tsp)

PMS Blend Three:

• Bergamot – 6 drops
• Geranium – 6 drops
• Palmarosa – 7 drops
• Carrier Oil – 5 ml (1 tsp)

PMS Blend Four: (I think this one works best in a diffuser or a tart melt, as some people have skin allergies to spicy oils.)

• Lemon – 5 drops
• Chamomile – 3 drops
• Geranium – 6 drops
• Allspice – 3 drops
• Clove – 3 drops
• Carrier oil – 5 ml

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